Acrylic (also known as PMMA or plexiglass) is one of the most popular materials for laser cutting—and for good reason. It cuts cleanly, polishes beautifully under the heat of a CO₂ laser, and offers optical clarity rivaling glass. However, achieving that flawless, flame-polished edge requires more than just pressing “cut.” In this guide, we’ll walk you through optimal settings, essential tips, and best practices for cutting acrylic with a CO₂ laser cutter in 2025.

Why CO₂ Lasers Excel with Acrylic

CO₂ lasers emit light at a wavelength of approximately 10.6 micrometers, which is strongly absorbed by acrylic. This allows for efficient vaporization of the material with minimal melting or charring—resulting in smooth, transparent edges that often require no post-processing.

Note: Diode lasers (445–455 nm) are generally ineffective for cutting acrylic—they tend to melt, yellow, or crack it due to poor absorption at that wavelength.

Recommended Laser Settings for Cast vs. Extruded Acrylic

Not all acrylic is created equal. There are two main types:

• Cast Acrylic: Higher quality, more consistent, and ideal for laser cutting. Produces clean, polished edges.
• Extruded Acrylic: Cheaper but less uniform; tends to melt unevenly and may leave a cloudy or frosted edge.

Always confirm your acrylic type before cutting. Look for labels like “cast” or check with your supplier.

General Power & Speed Guidelines (for 30W–100W CO₂ Lasers)

Tip: Always run test cuts on scrap material. Settings vary by laser brand, tube age, focus, and ambient conditions.

Essential Best Practices

1. Use Air Assist

Air assist blows compressed air across the cut path, cooling the material and blowing away molten residue. This:

• Prevents flaming or scorching
• Reduces lens contamination
• Improves edge clarity

Ensure your air compressor or built-in blower is clean and functioning.

2. Focus the Laser Correctly

The focal point should be at or slightly below the surface of the acrylic for optimal edge quality. Use an autofocus tool or manual gauge to set the Z-height accurately.

3. Keep the Lens and Mirrors Clean

Acrylic vapors can coat optics quickly. Wipe mirrors and the lens with lens-safe cleaner and microfiber cloth after every few jobs to maintain beam quality.

4. Avoid PVC and Other Toxic Plastics

Never confuse acrylic with PVC! Cutting PVC releases chlorine gas, which corrodes your machine and is hazardous to health. Always verify material composition.

5. Secure the Material Flat

Use pins, tape, or vacuum tables to prevent warping or movement. Even slight lifting can cause inconsistent cuts or flare-ups.

6. Ventilate Properly

Acrylic produces flammable fumes when cut. Use a ducted exhaust system vented outdoors or a high-efficiency fume extractor with activated carbon filters.

Troubleshooting Common Issues

Post-Processing (Usually Unnecessary!)

One of the biggest advantages of CO₂ laser-cut cast acrylic is that the edges are often self-polished—smooth, glossy, and transparent right off the machine. If minor haze remains, you can:

• Buff gently with plastic polish
• Flame-polish with a micro-torch (use extreme caution)
• Soak in water to reduce static that attracts dust

But in most cases, no finishing is needed—saving time and labor.

Final Thoughts

Cutting acrylic with a CO₂ laser is both an art and a science. With the right material (always choose cast acrylic), proper settings, and attention to machine maintenance, you can achieve professional-grade results that rival injection-molded parts.

As of 2025, modern CO₂ laser cutters—from desktop units like the xTool P2 to industrial systems from Epilog or Trotec—offer intuitive software, autofocus, and safety features that make acrylic cutting more accessible than ever.

So load up that cast sheet, dial in your test settings, and enjoy the satisfying hiss of a perfect laser-polished cut!

Remember: Safety first, test always, and never skip ventilation.