1. Laser Type: CO2 vs. Diode

• Diode Laser:​ Think of it as a very powerful, precise laser pointer. It's excellent for engraving​ on materials like wood, leather, and coated metals. It can cut, but it's slow and generally limited to thin materials (under 1/4").
  • Best for:​ Hobbyists on a tight budget who focus on engraving and occasional cutting of very thin materials.
• CO2 Laser:​ This is the classic laser cutter. It uses a gas-filled tube to generate a much more powerful beam. It's fast, versatile, and can cut and engrave​ a wide range of materials like wood, acrylic, glass, and fabric with professional results.
  • Best for:​ Makers and small businesses that need to cut efficiently and work with a variety of materials, especially acrylic.

2. Laser Power (Wattage)

• For Diode Lasers:​ Power typically ranges from 5W to 40W. However, be very careful! Many companies advertise the optical output(e.g., 10W), which is the true cutting power. Others advertise the electrical input(e.g., 40W), which is a much larger, misleading number. Always look for the optical power rating.
• For CO2 Lasers:​ Power ranges from 40W to 100W+ on a budget. Higher wattage means faster cutting speeds and the ability to cut through thicker materials. For a beginner, a 40W-60W machine offers a great balance of capability and cost.

3. Work Area Size

• Don't just think about fitting one large item. Consider the efficiency of nesting multiple smaller items on a single sheet of material. A slightly larger bed can dramatically improve your productivity.
• Remember: The stated work area (e.g., 400x400mm) is the maximum travel. You cannot engraize or cut right to the edge.

4. Software & Connectivity

• File Compatibility:​ What formats does the software accept? (SVG, DXF, AI, PNG are common).
• Ease of Use:​ Is the software intuitive, or does it have a steep learning curve? Some machines use established software like LaserGRBL or LightBurn, which have large user communities.
• Connectivity:​ How does the machine connect to your computer? USB is standard. Some modern machines offer Wi-Fi, which can be more convenient.

5. Cooling System

• Diode Lasers:​ Often have passive cooling (a heat sink and fan) which is sufficient for their power level.
• CO2 Lasers:​ This is critical. They require active cooling.
  • Air Cooling:​ A small integrated fan. Generally insufficient for anything more than very short engraving sessions.
  • Water Cooling:​ The standard for CO2 lasers. A pump circulates water from a reservoir to cool the tube. For consistent performance, a dedicated chiller is better than a simple bucket of water, which can heat up.

6. Safety Features (The Most Important Spec)

• Enclosure:​ A fully enclosed machine with an interlock switch (that stops the laser if the door is opened) is a must-have. It contains fire risks and protects your eyes from scattered laser radiation.
• Air Assist:​ A stream of compressed air directed at the cutting point. This keeps the lens clean, prevents flare-ups, and results in cleaner cuts by blowing away combustible gases. This is essential for cutting wood and acrylic.
• Exhaust Fan / Fume Extractor:​ You MUST vent the toxic fumes produced by vaporizing materials outdoors. Never operate a laser without proper ventilation.

7. Community and Support

• Community:​ Is there an active user group (on Facebook or forums) for the brand or model? A strong community is a goldmine for troubleshooting, tips, and custom modifications.
• Manufacturer Support:​ Does the seller provide clear documentation, wiring diagrams, and accessible technical support?

Final Word