1. Laser Type: Diode vs. CO2

• Diode Laser:​ Uses a semiconductor, similar to a high-power laser pointer. Ideal for engraving​ and light cutting.
  • Pros:​ Lower cost, compact, plug-and-play, low maintenance.
  • Cons:​ Slower, struggles with cutting thick materials, cannot process clear acrylic or glass.
• CO2 Laser:​ Uses a gas-filled tube to generate the laser beam. The standard for serious cutting.
  • Pros:​ Much faster and more powerful, excellent for cutting thicker wood and acrylic, works on clear materials.
  • Cons:​ Higher initial cost, requires more setup (ventilation, air assist), and the laser tube has a limited lifespan (a consumable cost).

2. Laser Power: The Engine of Your Machine

• For Diode Lasers:​ Power is typically 5W to 20W (optical output). A 10W diode is good for engraving and cutting wood/acrylic up to 1/4" (6mm), but slowly. Higher power means faster engraving and slightly better cutting ability.
• For CO2 Lasers:​ Power is measured in watts, typically 40W to 100W for budget models. A 40W-50W CO2 laser can cut through 1/4" (6mm) plywood and acrylic with ease. More power allows for faster speeds and thicker materials.

3. Work Area: Your Canvas Size

• Small (e.g., 400x400mm / 16"x16"):​ Great for small crafts, jewelry, and phone cases.
• Large (e.g., 800x800mm / 32"x32" and up):​ Necessary for large signs, intricate models, or batch production.

4. Software & Compatibility: The Brain of the Operation

• Proprietary Software:​ Many budget machines come with their own software. It's often simple but can be limited. Ensure it can import common file types like .svg and .dxf.
• GRBL Control:​ Many diodes and some CO2 lasers use GRBL firmware, which is controlled by universal software like LaserGRBL, LightBurn, or Candle. LightBurn​ is the industry favorite for its powerful features.
• CorelDraw Plugins:​ Some machines work as a plugin for design programs like CorelDraw or Adobe Illustrator.

5. Cooling System: Essential for Longevity

• Diode Lasers:​ Often use passive cooling (heat sinks) or small fans. This is usually sufficient for their power level.
• CO2 Lasers:​ This is critical.​ The laser tube mustbe cooled.
  • Air Cooling:​ Insufficient for all but the weakest tubes. Avoid on budget CO2 lasers.
  • Water Cooling:​ The standard. The tube is submerged in a water tank. Budget machines often include a basic water pump, but for long sessions, a dedicated water chiller​ is a highly recommended upgrade to maintain a consistent temperature.

6. Air Assist: The Key to Clean Cuts

• Why it matters:​ It prevents flare-ups by keeping oxygen away from the cut, blows away debris and smoke for a cleaner edge, and helps prevent the lens from getting dirty.
• Budget Check:​ Many low-cost machines don't include a proper air assist pump or have a weak one. This is often the first upgrade savvy buyers make.

7. Safety Features: Non-Negotiable

• Enclosure:​ A fully enclosed machine is far safer, containing the laser light and some of the fumes. Many diode lasers are open-frame, requiring extra user caution.
• Emergency Stop Button:​ A large, easily accessible button to kill power instantly.
• Eye Protection:​ The machine should include or specify the correct wavelength of laser safety glasses. Never operate a laser without them.
• Ventilation/Fume Extraction:​ You MUST have a plan to remove toxic fumes created by vaporizing materials. This means an external exhaust fan vented outside.

Final Checklist Before You Buy

1. Define Your Needs:​ Engraving or Cutting? What materials and thickness?
2. Choose Your Tech:​ Diode for engraving, CO2 for cutting.
3. Check the Real Power:​ Optical output wattage and laser type.
4. Measure the Bed:​ Will it fit your projects?
5. Research the Software:​ Is it LightBurn compatible?
6. Plan for Support:​ Does it need a chiller? A better air assist pump?
7. Prioritize Safety:​ What is your plan for enclosures, glasses, and ventilation?